Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Doll Angie Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;
Materials and Tools:
For Doll, Clothes, Shoes and Accessories:
- Yarn YarnArt Jeans – 160 m / 50 g – beige №05, 1 skein.
- Yarn YarnArt Jeans – 160 m / 50 g – red №90, 1 skein.
- Yarn YarnArt Jeans – 160 m / 50 g – brown №40, 1/2 skein.
- Yarn Alize Softy – 115m / 50 g – white №450, 1/2 skein (yarn can be replaced with YarnArt
Jeans – 160 m / 50 g – white №62). - White thread for the whites of the eyes (I use yarn YarnArt Jeans).
- Thin black thread for face design (I use black sewing thread).
- Strong thread for tightening.
- Eyes 10 mm – 1 pair (I use safety eyes).
- Glue eyelashes – 1 pair.
- Filler for toys.
- Wire about 90-100 cm long for the doll’s frame (I use an electrical wires with plastic
coverings and with a cross section of about 1 mm). - Wire about 20-25 cm long for a balloon-heart (I use a copper wire with a cross section of
about 0.3 mm folded 3 times). - Adhesive plaster or fabric tape.
- Suitable crochet hook for YarnArt Jeans. I use №1,5.
- 3 white hearts-buttons 12×15 mm for dress and diaper.
- 2 white hearts-buttons 12×12 mm for shoes.
- 2 red hearts-buttons 12×12 mm for dress.
- Sewing needle.
- Pins for fixing parts.
- Glue (I use glue Moment Crystal).
- Dry pastel for toning cheeks.
- Plastic cards or plastic canning covers to make insoles.
- Scissors.
Toy measures approximately 20 cm (7,87 inch) when made with the above materials.
For Doll’s Carry Basket, Pillow and Envelope Blanket:
- Yarn YarnArt Jeans Plus – 160 m / 100 g – white №62, 1/2 skein.
- Yarn YarnArt Jeans Plus – 160 m / 100 g – red №90, 1 skein and 1/3 of second skein.
- Yarn Alize Softy – 115m / 50 g – white №450, 1skein (yarn can be replaced with YarnArt
Jeans – 160 m / 50 g – white №62). - Suitable crochet hook for YarnArt Jeans Plus. I use №3.
- Needles №3.
- Piece of fleece for lining basket in the size of 20×30 cm and 11×70 cm (optional).
- Piece of plastic or thick cardboard in the size of 20×30 cm for the bottom of the basket.
Yarn YarnArt Jeans Plus can be replaced with yarn YarnArt Jeans in two strands.
NOTES:
The pattern is not educational material. The required skills are the basic knowledge of crochet.
Skill level: Intermediate.
Used technique – crocheting in spiral.
One important thing to note when working in spirals is that you do not turn and continue
making stitches in the opposite direction. You also do not join the last and first stitch at the end.
At the beginning of the row, use a marker or thread of a different color to help you see the
end of the row and the beginning of a new one.
You can use any other yarn, so your toy may have another size.
Enjoy!!!
Abbreviations (US terminology):
AR – adjustable ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
slst – slip stitch
inc(s) = increasing(s) (2 sc in 1 st)
dec(s) = decreasing(s) (sc2tog)
BLO – back loops only
FLO – front loops only
5 dc cluster – 5 double crochet cluster
(….) х – repeat the specified number of times
shst – shift stitch. As the work tends to twist to the right you need to adjust the position of the
marker (beginning of round). If you notice that the marker moves right, you need to work one
extra stitch at the end of the round and move the marker for one stitch. If you notice that the
marker moves left, do not crochet a stitch. This stitch is not included in the description.
NOTE: You should keep the marker in a straight line
on parts of the toy. Instructions for the marker are given
in the description if needed.
Attention!!!
The toy can be crocheted without a wire frame, only
then its arms and legs will not bend.
If you crochet a toy from a different yarn, you can
crochet a doll basket with it, but in two stands
Hands (make 2):
Work with beige yarn according to the scheme without
shst. I indicate where you need to correct with shift
stitches. Prepare two pieces of wire about 16-18 cm long
each, bend one end of each of them and insulate with
adhesive plaster or fabric tape (see photo).
1) 6 AR (6);
2) 6 inc (12);
3-4) 2 rows – 12 sc (12);
5) 5 sc, 5 dc cluster (the finger of the hand), 6 sc (12);
6-7) 2 rows – 12 sc (12);
At this stage, insert the wire, with the insulated side inside
the hand, and fill it a little with filler. Next, fill with filler
tightly during the process.
8) (1 sc, 1 dec)x4 (8);
9) (3 sc, 1 inc)x2 (10);
10-14) 5 rows – 10 sc (10);
15) (3 sc, 1 dec)x2 (8);
16) (1 sc, 1 inc)x4 (12);
17-21) 5 rows – 12 sc (12);
Fold it in half (the finger should be exactly on the side, see
photo, and if this is not so – make shst. I make 2 shst).
Finish with 1 slst, cut the thread, fasten and hide the tip
into detail
Legs-body-head:
Right leg:
Work with beige yarn according to the scheme without shst. I indicate where you need to
correct with shift stitches.
1) ch 6, start from 2nd stitch from hook, 4 sc, 3 sc in the last stitch, continue along the
second side of the chain 3 sc, 1 inc (12);
2) 1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18);
3) 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc)х3, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc)х2 (24);
Outline the sole of the foot and cut out the insole (I use plastic card or plastic canning
covers). You can skip this step – I just like it better when the sole of the foot is flat. Next,
prepare 2 pieces of wire about 25 cm long each, bend one end so that you get a loop and
bend it as shown in the photo. Insulate the ends of the wire with adhesive plaster or fabric
tape. With the help of an adhesive plaster or fabric tape, fix the wire on insole, so it will be
much more convenient to continue crocheting and fill the leg with filler.
4) work in BLO 24 sc (24);
Work in both loops.
5-6) 2 rows – 24 sc (24);
At this stage, align the marker for the beginning of the row (it should be on the back of the
leg) and, if necessary, make shst (I make 1 shst).
7) 6 sc, 6 dec, 6 sc (18);
Insert the insole with wire and fill the leg well with filler.
Next fill with filler during the process.
8) 4 sc, 5 dec, 4 sc (13);
9) 11 sc, 1 dec (12);
10) (3 sc, 1 inc)x3 (15);
11-15) 5 rows – 15 sc (15);
At this stage, align the marker for the beginning of the row
(it should be on the back of the leg) and, if necessary, make
shst (I make 1 shst). Next, we will crochet the knees
16) 2 slst, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 slst (18);
17) 2 slst, 4 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc, 2 slst (15);
18) 2 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc (18);
19-23) 5 rows – 18 sc (18);
At this stage, align the marker for the beginning of the row (it should be on the back of the
leg) and, if necessary, make shst (I make 2 shst).
24) 5 sc, 1 slst (6).
Cut the thread, fasten and hide into the detail
Left leg:
Crochet like the right leg up to row 24.
24) 13 sc, 6 ch, connect with the right leg (attach to the slst of 24 rows of the right leg with a
single crochet), 13 sc on the right leg (count together with sc crocheted in slst), and put a
marker for the beginning of the row. The marker for the beginning of the row on the left leg
can be removed. Bend and twist the wire as shown in the photo.
Body-head:
Work up to 47 rows according to the scheme without shst. Fill with filler during the process.
Pay special attention to the places where the legs pass into the body.
25) 5 sc on the right leg, 6 sc on chain, 18 sc on the left leg, 6 sc on chain, 13 sc on the right
leg (48);
26) 48 sc (48);
27) 24 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc)x6, 6 sc (54);
28-36) 9 rows – 54 sc (54);
37) 24 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc)x6, 6 sc (48);
38-39) 2 rows – 48 sc (48);
40) 3 sc, 1 dec, (6 sc, 1 dec)х5, 3 sc (42);
41-42) 2 rows – 42 sc (42);
43) (5 sc, 1 dec)х6 (36);
44-45) 2 rows – 36 sc (36);
46) 2 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec)х5, 2 sc (30);
5-7 sc, so that the marker for the beginning of the row is exactly on the back of the toy (I
make 6 sc), in the next row we start to crochet the hands.
To crochet the hands – put 2 markers: the 1st marker (I use
blue) – in the slst of the 21st row of the hand, the 2nd marker – 5
sc from the first marker (I use green). Crochet the hands as
follows:
- the first hand – crochet from the blue marker to the green
marker (the finger of the hand should be facing forward); - the second hand – crochet from the green marker to the blue
marker (the finger of the hand should be facing forward).
47) 4 sc, attach the first hand (the finger of the hand should be facing forward) and crochet
together with the hand’s loops 6 sc (6 sc on the hand should remain free), 10 sc, attach the
second hand (the finger of the hand should be facing forward) and crochet together with
the hand’s loops 6 sc (6 sc on the hand should remain free), 4 sc (30)
48) 4 sc, 6 sc on the remaining loops of the first hand, 10 sc, 6 sc on the remaining loops of
the second hand, 4 sc (30);
At this stage, bend and twist the wire as shown in the photo and insulate the ends
49) 30 sc (30);
50) (3 sc, 1 dec)х6 (24);
51) 24 sc (24);
52) 1 sc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec)х5, 1 sc (18);
53-54) 2 rows – 18 sc (18);
55) 18 inc (36);
56) (2 sc, 1 inc)х12 (48);
57) 48 sc (48);
58) (7 sc, 1 inc)x6 (54);
59) 4 sc, 1 inc, (8 sc, 1 inc)x5, 4 sc (60);
Now your crocheting is going in a wave – don’t worry, in the
process of further crocheting and stuffing, everything will be align.
60-68) 9 rows – 60 sc (60);
At this stage, make sure that the marker for the beginning
of the row is clearly at the back, in the next row we start to
crochet the cheeks
69) 15 sc, 6 dec, 6 sc, 6 dec, 15 sc (48);
70-76) 7 rows – 48 sc (48);
Insert safety eyes between rows 69 and 70 (pre-glue the eyelashes on the eyes), there
should be 6 sc between the eyes (where there are decreases on both sides). Fill the head
well, pay special attention to the cheeks – they should stand out.
77) 3 sc, 1 dec, (6 sc, 1 dec)х5, 3 sc (42);
78) (5 sc, 1 dec)х6 (36);
79) 2 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec)х5, 2 sc (30);
80) (3 sc, 1 dec)х6 (24);
81) 1 sc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec)х5, 1 sc (18);
82) (1 sc, 1 dec)х6 (12);
83) 6 dec (6).
Cut the thread, fasten, pull the hole and hide the tip of the thread in the toy.
Ears (make 2):
Work with beige yarn. Ch 4, in 4th stitch from hook 8 dc.
Cut the thread, fasten off and leave a long tip for sewing.
Lip (make 1):
Work with beige yarn. Ch 2, in 2nd stitch from hook 5 sc.
Cut the thread, fasten off and leave a long tip for sewing.
Wig (hair) (make 1):
Work with brown yarn according to the scheme without shst.
1) 6 AR (6);
2) work in BLO: 6 inc (12);
3) work in BLO: (1 sc, 1 inc)х6 (18);
4) work in BLO: (2 sc, 1 inc)х6 (24);
5) work in BLO: (3 sc, 1 inc)х6 (30);
6) work in BLO: (4 sc, 1 inc)х6 (36);
7) work in BLO: (5 sc, 1 inc)х6 (42);
8) work in BLO: (6 sc, 1 inc)х6 (48);
9) work in BLO: (7 sc, 1 inc)х6 (54);
10) work in BLO: (8 sc, 1 inc)х6 (60);
11-13) work in BLO: 3 rows – 60 sc (60).
Finish with 1 slst, do not cut the thread – unfold the wig
(hair), see photo A, next – crochet the curls. Work in FLO of
the 13th row (the direction of crocheting is indicated by
arrows).
14) (ch 6, start from 2nd stitch from hook, 5 sc on chain,
3 slst on wig (hair))x20.
Next, continue to crochet curls with a length of 5 sc, every 3 slst, for the remaining loops in a
spiral to the 1st row.
Finish with 1 slst in AR, cut the thread, fasten and hide the tip.
Needle sculpting:
Outline the points of the eyes and mouth: you should get 3 points– point 1 and point 2
between 69 and 70 rows (it should be 6 sc between points, where there are decreases on
both sides) and point 3 between rows 58 and 59.
Insert the needle at point 3 and output at point 1, then insert the needle moving by 1 sc to
the left from point 1 and output by 1 sc to the left from point 3, fix the eye and mouth.
Repeat several times to sculpt the eye and the mouth. Make other eye – insert the needle at
point 3 and output at point 2, then insert the needle moving by 1 sc to the right from point 2
and output by 1 sc to the right from point 3, fix the eye and mouth. Repeat several times to
sculpt the eye and the mouth.
If you use safety eyes – insert the needle at point 3 and output the needle from the
bottom of the left eye, then insert the needle moving by 1 sc to the left and output by 1 sc
to the left from point 3, fix the eye and mouth. Repeat several times to sculpt the eye and
the mouth. Make other eye: insert the needle at point 3 and output the needle from the
bottom of the right eye, then insert the needle moving by 1 sc to the right and output by 1
sc to the right from point 3, fix the eye and mouth. Repeat several times to sculpt the eye
and the mouth.
Face design and assembly:
If you use not safety eyes – sew or glue on them into the places of the eyes (pre-glue the
eyelashes).
Embroider the nose with a beige thread (nose of my toy is embroidered between 67 and
68 rows, in width by 4 sc).
Embroider the whites of the eyes with a white thread (I use yarn YarnArt Jeans).
Embroider the eyelid with a thin black thread (I use black sewing thread).
Embroider eyebrows with a thin black thread (eyebrows of my toy are embroidered
between 74 and 76 rows, diagonally by 2 sc, there are 7 sc between the eyebrows). I use
black sewing thread
Mark with pins where the ears will be located and sew them on (the ears of my toy are
sewn between 64 and 69 rows).
Mark with pins where the lip will be located and sew on it.
Mark with pins where the wig (hair) will be located and sew on it in a circle.
Tint the cheeks and mouth with pink dry pastel
Cloth, Shoes and Accessories
Dipper:
Work with red yarn in turning rows.
1) 41 ch, from the 2nd stitch from the hook 40 sc, 1 ch,
turn (40);
2) 40 sc, 1 ch, turn (40);
3) 1 sc, 2 ch, skip 2 sc (it’s the 1st buttonhole), 34 sc, 2 ch,
skip 2 sc (it’s the 2nd buttonhole), 1 sc, 1 ch, turn (40);
4) 1 sc, 2 sc on chain, 34 sc, 2 sc on chain, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn (40);
5) 40 sc (40).
Cut the thread, fasten off, hide the tip of the thread.
Step back from the edge of crocheting 14 sc, attach a red
thread – continue to crochet the 6th row of the diaper.
6) 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 1 ch, turn (10);
7) 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 1 ch, turn (8);
8) 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 1 ch, turn (6);
9) 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 ch, turn (4);
10-12) 3 rows – 4 sc, 1 ch, turn (4);
13) 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn (6);
14) 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn (8);
15) 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn (10);
16) 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn (12);
17) 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn (14);
18) 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn (16);
19-21) 3 rows – 16 sc, 1 ch, turn (16);
22) 16 sc (16).
1 ch and work around the perimeter of the dipper with sc.
Finish with 1 slst, cut the thread, fasten, hide the tip of the
thread. Sew on two white hearts-buttons
Dress:
Work with red yarn in turning rows.
1) 29 ch, from the 2nd stitch from the hook 4 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 ch, 8 sc, 1
ch, 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 sc, 1 ch, turn (36);
2) 36 sc, 1 ch, turn (36);
3) 5 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 ch, 6 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 ch, 10 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 ch, 6 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 ch, 5 sc,
1 ch, turn (44);
4) 44 sc, 1 ch, turn (44);
5) 6 sc, 9 ch, skip10 sc, 12 sc, 9 ch, skip 10 sc,6 sc, 1 ch, turn (42);
6) 6 sc, 9 sc on chain, 12 sc, 9 sc on chain, 6 sc, 1 ch, turn (42);
7) (6 sc, 1 inc)х6, 1 ch, turn (48);
8-9) 2 rows – 48 sc, 1 ch, turn (48);
10) 48 sc, 2 ch, turn (48);
11) 2 dc in each stitch (96);
At this stage, close in a circle with 1 slst, then work in a circle.
12) 2 ch, (1 dc, 2 dc in one stitch)х48, 1 slst (144);
13-15) 3 rows – 2 ch, 144 dc, 1 slst (144);
16) 2 ch, 144 slst (144).
Finish with 1 slst, cut the thread, fasten off, hide the tip of
the thread.
Make a neckline and buttonholes. Attach the red thread to the first row of the dress: 12 sc on
one side of the neckline, on the other side – 4 sc, 4 ch, 6 sc, 4 ch, 2 sc. Cut the thread, fasten,
hide the tip of the thread.
Sew on two red hearts-buttons on the back of the dress for fastening and 1 heart-button for
decoration in front.
Shoes (make 2):
Work with red yarn according to the scheme without shst. I
indicate where you need to correct with shift stitches.
1) ch 6, start from 2nd stitch from hook, 4 sc, 3 sc in the last
stitch, continue along the second side of the chain 3 sc, 1 inc (12);
2) 1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18);
3) 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc)х3, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc)х2 (24);
4) 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc)х3, 3 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc)х2 (30);
5) work in BLO 30 sc (30);
Work in both loops.
6-7) 2 rows – 30 sc (30);
At this stage, align the marker for the beginning of the row
(it should be on the back of the shoe) and, if necessary,
make shst (I make 2 shst).
8) 7 sc, 8 dec, 6 sc, 1 slst (22).
Cut the thread, fasten off and hide into the detail.
For the right shoe: attach a red thread to the seventh
stich to the right of the marker of the beginning of the row:
ch 14, start from seventh stitch from hook, 8 slst on the
chain, cut the thread, fasten and hide the tip of the thread.
Sew on a white heart-button.
For the left shoe: attach a red thread to the seventh stich
to the left of the marker of the beginning of the row: ch 14,
start from seventh stitch from hook, 8 slst on the chain, cut
the thread, fasten and hide the tip of the thread. Sew on a
white heart-button
Hair bow:
Work with red yarn according to the scheme without shst.
Ch 20, close in a circle with 1 slst, next crochet with sc in a
spiral without lifting loops.
1-3) 3 rows – 20 sc (20).
Finish with 1 slst, cut the thread, fasten, leave a long thread
and pull the bow in the middle with it.
Work with red: ch 8, start from 2nd stitch from hook, 7 sc.
Cut the thread, fasten, wrap it around the center of the bow
and sew.
Sew a bow to the head.
If you want the bow to be removed – crochet a chain of 54
ch, close in a circle with 1 slst and sew a bow to chain.
Wings (make 1):
Work with white yarn according to the scheme. Make sure
that the decreases and increases in rows 4-41 pass exactly
along the fold lines of the wings, and if necessary, adjust
with shst. Do not fill with filler the detail. In pattern, for
clarity, the wings are crocheted from YarnArt Jeans, the
wings of my doll are crocheted from Alize Softy. You choose
the yarn that is comfortable for you.
1) 6 AR (6);
2) (1 sc, 1 inc)х3 (9);
3) (2 sc, 1 inc)х3 (12);
4) 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc (14);
5) 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc (16);
6) 7 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc (18);
7) 8 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc (20);
8) 9 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc (22);
9) 10 sc, 2 inc, 10 sc (24);
10) 11 sc, 2 inc, 11 sc (26);
11) 12 sc, 2 inc, 12 sc (28);
12) 13 sc, 2 inc, 13 sc (30);
13-17) 5 rows – 30 sc (30);
18) 1 dec, 11 sc, 2 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec (26);
19) 1 dec, 9 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec (22);
20) 1 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec (18);
21) 1 dec, 5 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec (14);
22) 5 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc (12);
23) 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc (14);
24) 1 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc (18);
25) 1 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc (22);
26) 1 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc (26);
27) 1 inc, 11 sc, 2 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc (30);
28-32) 5 rows – 30 sc (30);
33) 13 sc, 2 dec, 13 sc (28);
34) 12 sc, 2 dec, 12 sc (26);
35) 11 sc, 2 dec, 11 sc (24);
36) 10 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc (22);
37) 9 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc (20);
38) 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (18);
39) 7 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc (16);
40) 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (14);
41) 5 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc (12);
42) (2 sc, 1 dec)x3 (9);
43) (1 sc, 1 dec)x3 (6).
Cut the thread, fasten, pull the hole and hide the tip into the
detail.
Crochet a mount for the wings. Work with red yarn: ch 41
(maybe you will have a different number – try on the wings),
start from 2nd stitch from hook, 40 sc. Cut the thread,
fasten, leave a long tip for sewing. Sew the edges of it to the
bottom of the wings (to the 18th and 26th row, see photo).
Next, sew the center of it to the top of the wings (to the
22nd and 23rd row, see photo)
Heart-balloon:
Work with red yarn according to the scheme without shst.
Fill with filler during the process up to 17 rows.
Detail 1:
1) 6 AR (6);
2) 6 inc (12);
3) (1 sc, 1 inc)х6 (18);
4-5) 2 rows – 18 sc (18).
Finish with 1 slst, cut the thread, fasten and hide the tip
into detail.
Detail 2:
1) 6 AR (6);
2) 6 inc (12);
3) (1 sc, 1 inc)х6 (18);
4-5) 2 rows – 18 sc (18)
Do not cut the thread, connect with the detail 1 (attach to
the slst of 5 rows of the detail 1 with a single crochet).
6) 18 sc on the detail 1 (count together with sc crocheted in
slst), 18 sc on the detail 2 (36);
Put a marker for the beginning of the row.
7-8) 2 rows – 36 sc (36);
9) 2 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec)x5, 2 sc (30);
10) 30 sc (30);
11) (3 sc, 1 dec)x6 (24);
12) 24 sc (24);
13) 1 sc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec)x5, 1 sc (18);
14) 18 sc (18);
15) (1 sc, 1 dec)x6 (12);
16) 6 dec (6);
17) 6 inc (12).
Finish with 1 slst, cut the thread, fasten, leave a long thread
for winding wire.
Take a wire about 20-25 cm long (I use a copper wire with a
cross section of about 0.3 mm folded 3 times), smear the
edge of the wire with glue (I use glue Moment Crystal) and
insert it with this side into a heart-balloon. Next, smear the
rest of the wire with glue and wrap it in a spiral with the
remaining tip of the thread.
Crochet Doll’s Carry Basket, Pillow and Envelope Blanket
Crochet Doll’s Carry Basket:
You can crochet the basket with YarnArt Jeans Plus with crochet hook №3, or you can use
YarnArt Jeans with two strands. If you use other yarn to make the toy, then you can crochet
the basket with this yarn with two strands.
Work with red yarn according to the scheme without shst. I indicate where you need to
correct with shift stitches.
1) ch 21, start from 2nd stitch from hook, 19 sc, 4 sc in the last stitch, continue along the
second side of the chain 18 sc, 3 sc in the last stitch (44);
2) 1 inc, 18 sc, 4 inc, 18 sc, 3 inc (52);
3) 1 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc)х4, 18 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc)х3 (60);
4) 21 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc)x3 (66);
5) 21 sc, (3 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (3 sc, 1 inc)x3 (72);
6) 21 sc, (4 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (4 sc, 1 inc)x3 (78);
7) 21 sc, (5 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (5 sc, 1 inc)x3 (84);
8) 21 sc, (6 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (6 sc, 1 inc)x3 (90);
9) 21 sc, (7 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (7 sc, 1 inc)x3 (96);
10) 21 sc, (8 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (8 sc, 1 inc)x3 (102);
11) 21 sc, (9 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (9 sc, 1 inc)x3 (108);
12) 21 sc, (10 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (10 sc, 1 inc)x3 (114);
13) 21 sc, (11 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (11 sc, 1 inc)x3 (120);
14) 21 sc, (12 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (12 sc, 1 inc)x3 (126);
15) 21 sc, (13 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (13 sc, 1 inc)x3 (132);
16) 21 sc, (14 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (14 sc, 1 inc)x3 (138);
17) 21 sc, (15 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (15 sc, 1 inc)x3 (144);
18) 21 sc, (16 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (16 sc, 1 inc)x3 (150);
19) 21 sc, (17 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (17 sc, 1 inc)x3 (156);
20) 21 sc, (18 sc, 1 inc)x3, 21 sc, (18 sc, 1 inc)x3 (162);
At this stage, lay the doll on the bottom to see if there is enough space for her to sit freely
there. I have a doll about 20 cm high, bottom dimensions – 26×17 cm. If your bottom is not
enough – make a few more rows of increases to the size you need. To prevent the bottom
from twisting, iron it through a wet cloth from the wrong side. Next, 12-14 sc to move the
marker of the beginning of the row to the side of the basket a little (I make 13 sc) – it will not
be so noticeable there that the pattern does not quite match.
21) work in BLO 162 sc (162);
Work in both loops.
22) 162 sc (162);
Change the thread to white,
do not cut the red, leave it at
work, then we will alternate
several colors, making a
pattern using the jacquard
technique. The basic rules for
working in the jacquard
crochet technique see below.
Crochet Jacquard:
The basic rule of a beautiful crochet jacquard is the
correct thread change. Change the thread in this way:
when you make the last stitch of the previous color and
you have 2 open loops on the hook (see photo 1), crochet
them together with the thread of the new color (see photo
2). Put previous color yarn on the top of previous row.
Now you will continue crocheting with new color yarn in
the usual way – but at the same time over previous color
yarn. Hold it with your hand together with crocheted
piece, so that it’s easier for you to insert the hook (see
photo 3). If you do everything correctly, the yarn of
different color will not be seen either on right or wrong
side (see photo 4, 5).
Rows 23 to 41 work according to scheme
A
using the jacquard technique.
After the 39th row, cut the white thread,
fasten, hide the tip of the thread. Then
work with red yarn
Start making basket handles after 41 rows. Mark 4
points. I got it as follows (see scheme B).
If you have a different number of stitches, not 162 sc
like mine, distribute the stitches by yourself.
Next, look where you have the marker for the
beginning of the row and:
if you have it before the handle marker – make a few
more stitches;
if you have it after the handle marker – undo a few
stitches (I make 7 sc, see photo below).
42) 45 ch, skip 22 sc, 59 sc, 45 ch, skip 22 sc, 59 sc (208);
43) 45 sc on chain, 59 sc, 45 sc on chain, 59 sc (208);
44) 208 sc (208);
45) 208 slst (208).
Cut the thread, fasten, hide the tip of the thread
To align the sides of the basket, attach a red thread between 40 and 41 rows and crochet in
a circle of 162 slst. Cut the thread, fasten, hide the ends of the thread. Iron it through a wet
cloth from the wrong side.
To strengthen the bottom of the basket – outline and cut out
the bottom of plastic or thick cardboard, insert inside.
You can complete the basket like this, or you can sew on the
lining. I made a fleece lining. Take a piece of fabric
measuring 11×70 cm (maybe you have other sizes – measure
the height and diameter) and carefully sew it along the 39th
row in a circle. I did not sew the lining along the bottom, it is
well fixed with the bottom.
Next, cut out the fleece lining for the bottom 2-3 cm larger
than the bottom itself and glue it (see photo)
Abbreviations (knitting):
k – knit
p – purl
es – edge stitch (the first is simply removed on the right working needle (the thread remains
at work) and the last one should be knitted with the usual purl).
Envelope Blanket:
Knitting needles № 3 (I use circular needles). Work with
white yarm (I use Alize Softy). Cast on 60 stitches.
1) 1 es, k58 , 1 es (60);
2) 1 es, p58 , 1 es (60);
3) 1 es, k58 , 1 es (60);
4) 1 es, p58 , 1 es (60);
…..
So we knit on the knit side and purl on the purl side. I have
86 rows, cast off, so my blanket came out square. The size
of my blanket-envelope is 26×26 cm. The height of the doll is 20 cm.
You can use any other yarn, but then calculate the number
of stitches for your yarn and knitting density.
If you don’t know how to knit, you can crochet with crochet
hook №3. Ch 61, from the 2nd stitch from the hook 60 sc, 1
ch, turn, 60 sc, 1 ch, turn, 60 sc, 1 ch, turn, etc. to the
height you need.
Bow for Envelope Blanket:
Band:
Work with red yarn – 62 ch, from the 3rd stitch from the hook 60 dc. Then work around: 1
sc, 2 ch, 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc, 2 ch, etc. Finish with 1 slst, cut the thread, fasten off. Sew the
edges of the band into a ring.
Bow:
Work with red yarn in turning rows.
1) 11 ch, rom the 2nd stitch from the hook 10 sc, 1 ch, turn (10);
2-11) 10 rows – 10 sc, 1 ch, turn (10);
12) 10 sc (10).
Next, work around the perimeter of the bow in this way: 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc, 2 ch,
etc. on all 4 sides. Finish with 1 slst, cut the thread, fasten, hide the tip of the thread. Pull
the bow in the middle.
Сh 12, wrap it around the center of the bow and sew.
Sew a bow to the band
Pillow:
Knitting needles №3 (I use circular needles). Work with white
yarm (I use Alize Softy). Cast on 40 stitches.
1) 1 es, k38 , 1 es (40);
2) 1 es, p38 , 1 es (40);
3) 1 es, k38 , 1 es (40);
4) 1 es, p38 , 1 es (40);
…..
So we knit on the knit side and purl on the purl side. I have 60
rows, cast off, so it came out rectangle 16×18 cm.
Fold it in half and sew the sides along the perimeter. Lightly fill with filler during the process. The
size of my pillow is 16×9 cm.
You can use any other yarn, but then calculate the number of stitches for your yarn and knitting density.
If you don’t know how to knit, you can crochet with crochet hook №3. Ch 41, from the 2nd stitch
from the hook 40 sc, 1 ch, turn, 40 sc, 1 ch, turn, 40 sc, 1 ch, turn, etc. to the height you need.
FINISH
