Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers
Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…
Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Celebration days(day4) Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;
Materials
• Various color yarns (I use cotton yarn 8/4)
• Various color Sport weight soft yarn (alpaca or soft cotton)
• Glitter or silver cotton
• A small amount of “fluffy” wool for the hand muff
• A small amount of thicker yarn of your choice for the snood
• 2,5 mm or 2,75 mm crochet hook (depending on your tension)
• Needles for sewing up
• Two 60 cm x 12 cm tulle fabric rectangles for the dresses
• A fabric rectangle (30 cm x 12 cm) for the birthday dress
• A toothpick and a skewer pick
• Sewing thread
• Polyester toy stuffing
Clothes crocheted with the described material can dress a doll of
about 30 cm.
Stitches and abbreviations :
This pattern uses American standard abbreviations
ch: chain stitch or chain space
slst: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
bbl: bobble stitch (4 double crochet closed together in the same stitch)
inc : increase (2 stitches into 1 stitch of previous round)
dec : decrease (crochet 2 stitches together)
(…): repeat until end
rd(s): round(s)
Each piece is crocheted in a continuous spiral, not in joined rounds, starting off with a magic loop- or in rows.
Use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round.
At the end of each line, you will find in brackets the number of stitches you should get at the end of your row.
Notes : Color change : Always change your yarn in the last step of the last stitch, which means :
Work in previous color until 2 loops of the last stitch remain on the hook. Use the new color to complete the stitch.
The next stitch you make will be the first stitch in the new color.
Try not to cut off any yarn tails that will be needed later on, for example for stripes.
Bobble stitch : 4 double crochet closed together in the same stitch :
Yarn over. Insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over again and pull the yarn through the stitch (3 loops on the hook).
Yarn over and draw the yarn through the first 2 loops on the hook (2 loops remaining on the hook ).
Repeat the previous steps 3 times in the same stitch (you now have 4 half closed double-crochet stitches into one stitch).
Yarn over and pull the yarn through all 5 loops on the hook.
Dress : (with cotton yarn – 2,5mm hook)
1. Chain 22 (22)
2. 21 sc along the chain, ch2 turn (21)
3. 2hdc, (2hdc, 1(hdc)inc) x5, 4hdc, ch2 turn (26)
4. 2dc, (3dc, 1(dc)inc) x5, 4dc, ch2 turn (31)
5. 4hdc, ch7, skip 6 stitches, 5hdc, 1(hdc)inc, 5hdc, ch7,
skip 6 stitches, 4hdc, ch2 turn (34)
6. 34hdc, ch2 turn (34)
7. 34hdc, ch1 turn (34)
8. 34sc, ch1 turn (34)
9. ch2, 1hdc, 33(hdc)inc (68)
Sequences between ( ) are crocheted in the same stitch:
10. (ch3, 1dc), skip 1st, [(1dc, ch1, 1dc), skip 1st] x32,
(1dc, ch1, 1dc)
11. Join both ends with a slst in the start ch and continue
working in rounds : 1sc in the 1°ch space, [ch3, 1sc in
the next space] repeat more times. Close the round
with a slst.
12. Shell stitch : start with slst to reach the first space, (ch3,
2dc, ch1, 3dc) in the 1°ch space, 1sc in the next space,
[(3dc, ch1, 3dc) in the next space, 1sc in the next
space] repeat until the end of the round, slst.
13. Hem stitch : (ch4, 1dc, ch1, 1dc) in the 1°ch space, ch2,
1sc in the tip of the shell point, [ch2, (1dc, ch1, 1dc,
ch1, 1dc in the sc of the previous rd) ch2, 1sc in the tip
of the shell point] repeat until the end of the round,
ch2, slst.
14. 1sc (in the middle dc of the 3dc of the previous rd),
[ch2, (1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc) in the sc of the previous
rd, ch2, 1sc in the middle dc of the 3dc] repeat until
the end of the round, slst.
15. (ch4, 1dc, ch1, 1dc) in the sc of the previous rd, ch2,
1sc (in the middle dc of the 3dc), [ch2, (1dc, ch1, 1dc,
ch1, 1dc) ch2, 1sc (in the middle dc of the 3dc)] repeat
until the end of the round, ch2, slst.
Repeat one more time rounds 14 and 15
(4 rounds in total).
Finish the work with a slst, cut the yarn and close the round invisible.
Crochet two 12 ch tie on each side of the back of the neckline to attach it or
sew a small button.
Hand muff : (with “fluffy” wool – 2,5mm hook)
1. Crochet a loosely ch 16, make sure the chain isn’t
twisted and join with a slst.
(16)
2-11. 16 sc around, 12 rounds (16)
Finish the work with a slst, cut the yarn and close the round invisibly.
Crochet a ch 55 to make a handle and sewing it at the top of each side of
the hand muffs.
Snood : (with thicker yarn of your choice and a larger hook, according
to the yarn)
56 ch. Starting in the 3rd chain from hook: 54dc along the chain. Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Make a pompom about 4 cm in diameter and sew it on one of the ends.
At the other end, make a loop to close the snood.
It wraps twice around the neck.
Headband : (with cotton yarn – 2,5mm hook)
1. Chain 68 (68)
2. 66 hdc along the chain, ch2 turn (66)
3-4. 66 hdc, ch2 turn, 2 rows (66)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sew a button on one of the ends. At the other end, make a loop to close
the headband in the neck.
Ears : Make 2
1. 6 sc in magic loop (6)
2. inc (x6) (12)
3-6. 12 sc around, 4 rounds (12)
7. 2 sc, dec (x3) (9)
Flatten the ears and close the opening. Fold the end
together and sew the edge. Leaving a long tail for
sewing the ears onto the headband.
Antler : (with dark color – 2,5mm hook)
Work separately, the large branch and then the small branch (make two of each).
Large branch :
1.7 sc in magic loop (7)
2-10. 7 sc around, 9 rounds (7)
Small branch :
1 7 sc in magic loop (7)
2-4 7 sc around, 3 rounds (7)
Stuff the antler lightly.
Sew the small branch onto the large one at
round 6.
Sew the two antler parts on both sides of the
headband just above the ears.
Teddy bear : (with cotton yarn (or sport yarn ) – 2,5mm hook)
The head, the body and the legs are worked in a single piece (from head
to leg). Stuff firmly, adding more as you go.
1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. inc (x6) (12)
3. 1 sc, inc (x6) (18)
4. 2 sc, inc (x6) (24)
5-8. 24 sc around, 4 rounds (24)
9. 2 sc, dec (x6) (18)
10. 1 sc, dec (x6) (12)
11. dec x6 (6)
12. 6 sc around (6)
13. inc (x6) (12)
14. 12 sc around (12)
15. 2 sc, inc (x4) (16)
16-19. 16 sc around, 4 rounds (16)
Arms : 5 sc in magic ring.
2-6 5 sc around, 5 rounds (5)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the
arms onto the body.
Ears : 6 sc in magic ring.
Tighten the ring but do not join it in a circle.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the
ears onto the head.
Embroider the eyes at round 7 leaving a
space of 6 sts between them and a nose in
the middle.
To make the legs, divide the work identifying 1 st for the front central space
between the legs, 1 st for the back and 7 sts for each leg.
Join the last st for the leg on the back side to the front side, with a slst.
The stitches of the first leg are now forming a circle :
20-23. 7 sc around, 4 rounds (7)
24. dec x3, 1 slst (3)
Second leg : Join the yarn again in the second unworked st at the back of
round 19 and repeat rounds 20 to 24. Finish stuffing the leg. Fasten off and close remaining sts, weaving in ends.
Sew the opening between the legs with a needle.
