Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Christmas Ginger Doll Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Materials
1.75mm and 1.5mm crochet hook, clover brand
100% Thin cotton yarn, in colors:
Sand Body and head
Red Shoes, accessories
Green Skirt, accessories
Dark brown Hair
Light brown Dress, hat
White Accessories
Stitch markers
1mm galvanized wire
10mm safety eyes
Fiberfill
Scissors
Cardboard
Tapestry needle
Blush or chalk pastel
False eyelashes (optional)
Black tape
medium button to close the dress
Red and green sewing thread
White felt or interlining

Stitches abbreviations
ch :Chain
R :Round
Rw: Row
mr :Magic ring
sk :Skip stitches
st, sts :Stitch, stitches
sl st :Slip stitch
sc: Single crochet
sc-inc :Increase of single crochet (2sts in one st)
sc-inc3 : Double increase of single crochet (3sts in one st)
sc-inc4 : Triple increase of single crochet (4sts in one st)
sc2tog : Decrease of single crochet (2 sts together)
hdc :Half double crochet
hdc-inc :Increase of half double crochet (2 sts in one st)
hdc-inc3 :Double increase of hdc (3 sts in one st)
dc :Double crochet
dc-inc: Increase of double crochet
tr :Triple crochet
BLO :Back loops only
FLO :Front loops only
TLO :Crochet through horizontal bar only (aka 3rd loop only)
BPsc : Back post single crochet
FO: Fasten off
FOLLT :Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
JSL : Join with slst
JCH1: Join with slst and ch 1
JCH2 :Join with slst and ch 2
JCH3 :Join with slst and ch 3
JCH4 :Join with slst and ch 4
CHT1: Chain 1 and turn
CHT2 :Chain 2 and turn
JCHT1 :Join with slst, chain 1 and turn your work

Back post double crochet (BPdc)
Yarn over, and insert your hook from back to front between the posts of the first and second double crochet of the row below and then from front to back again between the posts of the second and third stitches. Yarn over, and draw the yarn around the post of the stitch. Yarn over, and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, twice.

Back post single crochet (BPsc)
It is the same steps of the BPdc, but instead of making a double crochet, you make a single crochet, inserting the hook between the posts the same way.

BLO Insert your hook underneath the back loop only and make the st.
FLO Insert your hook underneath the front loop only and make the st.
TLO Insert your hook underneath the third loop of the st.
{ … } Make all the sts inside curly brackets in the same st.
sk N When it is written sk followed by a number, it means that you will have to skip that number of stitches of the previous round, you will not crochet that N number of stitches.
FLO* […] When you see that a round or row begins with FLO (just FLO), it means that you will crochet the whole round in front loops only, but, when you see FLO * […], it means that you will crochet only in front loops the stitches placed inside the square brackets, and make the rest of the stitches of that round on both loops.

Arms (make 2)
Start with sand color
R 1 mr, 6 sc [6]
R 2 (sc, sc-inc)x3 [9]
R 3 9 sc [9]
R 4 2 sc, 2 sc-inc3, 5 sc [13]
R 5 13 sc [13]
R 6 2 sc, 2 sc3tog, 5 sc [9]
R 7-23 9 sc (17 rounds). FO. [9]
Do not stuff the arms.

Legs (make 2)
Work all around the foundation chain.
Left leg
Start with sand color
R 1 ch 6, sc-inc, 3 sc, sc-inc4, 3 sc, sc-inc [14]
R 2 2 sc-inc, 3 sc, 4 hdc-inc, 3 sc, 2 sc-inc [22]
R 3 BLO 22 sc [22]
R 4 22 sc [22]
R 5 8 sc, 3 sc2tog, 8 sc [19]

Cut a piece of wire about 9.8 inches long (the length will vary depending on the thickness of yarn the you use). Fold the wire as shown below in the images. The size of the fold should be the same size of the sole of the foot. Insert the wire into the doll’s foot and stuff with fiberfill.
Stuff the legs as you work.

R 6 6 sc, 4 sc2tog, 5 sc [15]
R 7 6 sc, sc3tog, 6 sc [13]
R 8-24 13 sc (17 rounds) [13]
R 25 sc, sc2tog, 4 sc, FLO* [3 sc-inc], 3 sc [15]
R 26 15 sc [15]
R 27 sc, sc-inc, 5 sc, 2 sc2tog, 4 sc [14]
R 28-35 14 sc (8 rounds) [14]
R 36 6 sc, sc-inc, 7 sc [15]
R 37-38 15 sc (2 rounds) [15]
R 39 6 sc, sc-inc, 8 sc [16]
R 40-41 16 sc (2 rounds) [16]
Change to light brown
R 42 16 sc [16]
Make 3 sc more (these sts won’t count as part of any round) and FO.
Right leg
Start with sand color
R 1-35 Same as left leg
R 36 13 sc, sc-inc [15]
R 37-38 15 sc (2 rounds) [15]
R 39 14 sc, sc-inc [16]
R 40-41 16 sc (2 rounds) [16]
Change to light brown
R 42 16 sc. Do not cut yarn. [16]
Leg joining
R 43 Make 8 sc more on the right leg (or as many stitches as it takes to get in the inner side of the thigh) and ch 3 (F1). These sts won’t count as part of any round. Join on the left leg making one sc in the 2nd st or the st that is on the inner side of the thigh (this sc will be the beginning of each round), then make: 15 sc more in this leg, 3 sc on chains, 16 sc on the other leg and 3 sc on the base chains. You will have a total of 38 sc. See graphic 2. Continue with the body.

Body
Keep with light brown
R 44 7 sc, sc-inc, 18 sc, sc-inc, 11 sc [40]
R 45-48 40 sc (4 rounds) [40]
R 49 5 sc, (sc2tog, sc)x2, 17 sc, (sc2tog, sc)x2, 6 sc [36]
R 50 6 sc, sc2tog, 18 sc, sc2tog, 8 sc [34]
R 51 4 sc, sc2tog, 20 sc, sc2tog, 6 sc [32]
Change to sand color
R 52 (6 sc, sc2tog)x4 [28]
R 53 28 sc [28]
R 54 (5 sc, sc2tog)x4 [24]
R 55-59 24 sc (5 rounds) [24]
Arm joining

Note
When you first insert your hook into the arm, make sure the thumb is pointing forward. This rule is for both arms, so you can change the joining st if necessary.

R 60 Make 6 sc on the body, 2 sc on the arm and the body at the same time, starting in the 1st st of
the arm, (insert your hook first in the arm, inside out and then in the body) (F2-F3). Continue making 10 sc on the body, 2 sc on the arm and the body at the same time, starting in the 4th st of the arm, in the same way as described before and finally make 4 sc on the body. You will end up with 24 sc. See graphic 3. R 61 In this R, skip the 2 joining sts of the arm and the body. Make 6 sc on the body, 7 sc on the
unworked sts of the arm (F4), 10 sc on the body, 7 sc on the unworked sts of the arm, and 4 sc on
body. You will end up with 34 sc. See graphic 4.

Cut two pieces of wire the size of the arm plus about 4 inches, fold one end as shown in F5 and
cover it with tape (F6). Insert them into each arm (F7) and twist them to the main wire of the body (F8). Stuff the top of the arms, chest and shoulders very well. Remember to stuff as you crochet.
R 62 34 sc [34]
R 63 5 sc, 4 sc2tog, 10 sc, 4 sc2tog, 3 sc [26]
R 64 4 sc, 3 sc2tog, 8 sc, 3 sc2tog, 2 sc [20]
R 65 (3 sc, sc2tog)x4 [16]
R 66 (2 sc, sc2tog)x4 [12]
R 67-69 12 sc (3 rounds) [12]
R 70 BLO 12 sc [12]
R 71 (4 sc, sc2tog)x2 [10]
R 72-81 10 sc (10 rounds) [10] Close the neck hole and FO.

Head
Attach yarn on front loops of round 69 of the neck (F9) and make:
Start with sand color
R 1 12 sc-inc [24]
R 2 (sc, sc-inc)x12 [36]
R 3 (5 sc, sc-inc)x6 [42]
R 4 3 sc, (sc-inc, 6 sc)x5, sc-inc, 3 sc [48]
R 5 (7 sc, sc-inc)x6 [54]
R 6 4 sc, (sc-inc, 8 sc)x5, sc-inc, 4 sc [60]
R 7-20 60 sc (14 rounds) [60]

Eyes
Draw the outline of the safety eyes on a fabric that does not fray when cutting (it could be interlining or thin felt). Then, starting from that circle, draw the shape you want the eyes to look like (F10). Cut two pieces of it and make a hole in the center (F11), then insert them into the fabric and glue them (F12). Insert the eyes in the head between rounds 12 and 13 counted from bottom to top), with 9 sts of space between them (F13).
R 21 4 sc, (sc2tog, 8 sc)x5, sc2tog, 4 sc [54]
R 22 (7 sc, sc2tog)x6 [48]
R 23 3 sc, (sc2tog, 6 sc)x5, sc2tog, 3 sc [42]
R 24 (5 sc, sc2tog)x6 [36]
R 25 2 sc, (sc2tog, 4 sc)x5, sc2tog, 2 sc [30]
Start stuffing the head and go stuffing it as you work.
R 26 (3 sc, sc2tog)x6 [24]
R 27 sc, (sc2tog, 2 sc)x5, sc2tog, sc [18]
R 28 (sc, sc2tog)x6 [12]
R 29 6 sc2tog [6]
Close the hole and FOLLT. With the long tail, embroider the nose, one round below the eyes taking 3 sts (F14). Embroider the eyebrows with dark brown yarn, two rounds above the eyes (F15).

Dress
Work in rows.
Start with light brown
Rw 1 ch 23, 22 sc. CHT2 [22]
Rw 2 BLO 3hdc, 4 hdc-inc, 8hdc, 4 hdc-inc, 3 hdc. CHT2 [30]
Rw 3 TLO hdc-inc, 2hdc, (hdc-inc3, 6 hdc)x2, 2 hdc, hdc-inc3, 6 hdc, hdc-inc3, 2 hdc, hdc-inc. CHT1 [40]
Rw 4 BLO 5 sc, ch 3, sk 9, 12 sc, ch 3, sk 9, 5 sc. CHT1 [28]
Rw 5 FLO 28 sc. CHT1 [28]
Rw 6 BLO 28 sc. CHT1 [28]
Rw 7 FLO 6 sc, sc-inc, 14 sc, sc-inc, 6 sc. CHT1 [30]
Rw 8 BLO 30 sc. CHT1 [30]
Rw 9 FLO 5 sc, sc-inc, 18 sc, sc-inc, 5sc. CHT1 [32]
Rw 10 BLO 32 sc [32]
Join to the other side of the dress making one slst in the 1st sc of row 10 (F16) and ch 1. Now work in joined rounds.
R 11 BLO 32 sc-inc. JCH1 [64]
R 12 (sc, sc-inc)x32. Join with slst, ch 2 and turn your work. From now on, you’ll work with the wrong side facing you.[96]
In image F17 you can see how the dress would be worked if it were crocheted with the right side facing you. Image F18 shows how to work with the wrong side facing you. Make sure you are working as in F18.
For the dress skirt pattern, you will work with half double crochet sts and triple crochet sts, intercalating them.
R 13 (hdc, tr)x48. JCH4 [96]
R 14 (tr, hdc)x48. JCH2 [96]
R 15-19 Repeat round 13 and 14, intercalating them. See graphic 5.
R 20 (tr, hdc)x48 [96]
Change to red
Join with slst, ch 1 and turn your work. You will work the last round with the right side facing you.
R 21 BLO (slst, sk 1, {5dc}, sk 1)x24 [144]. JSL and FO (F19). See graphic 6.
Attach green yarn to the front loops of round 10 of the dress (F20) and make: (slst, ch 2)x32. JSL and FO.
Attach red yarn to the front loops of round 9 of the dress (F21) and make: (slst, ch 1)x30. FO.

Note
Graphic 5, 6, 8 and 9 represent only a part of the pattern, they are for reference and example, but they do not represent the total number of sts of the pattern.

Sleeves
Work in joined rounds. Attach yarn to the armhole, in the back side, as shown in F22 for the right sleeve and F23 for the left one (in the sides of the hole) and make:
Start with light brown
R 1 (sc, sc-inc)x7. JCH1 [21]. See graphic 7.
Note that the graphic shows the hole as it was from row 4 of the dress (gray sts), and the sts of this round of the sleeve (blue and pink sts). The sts that are in pink should be made on the sides of the hole.
R 2 BLO 21sc. JCH1 [21]
R 3 BLO 21sc. JCHT1 [21]
R 4 (sc, sc2tog)x7 (F24). JCHT1 [14]

Change to white
R 5 BLO 14sc. JCH1 [14]
R 6 (sc, ch 3)x14. JSL and FO [56]
Attach red yarn in front loops of round 4 of the sleeves (F25) and make 14 slst. FO. Try to make the slst not so tight. Make the same for the 2nd sleeve.
Attach light brown yarn in the opening back of the dress, on right side (F26) and make 10 sc on that side, 2 sc on the bottom, 9 sc, ch 12, 1 sc on the other side, making this way one loop for the (F27). Sew one button on the other side (F28).

Small strip (make 2)
Use a crochet hook 0.25mm smaller than the one you used for the doll (in my case, I used 1.5mm) and with white yarn, ch 14, then make: (sc, sc-inc3, sc, sk 2)x2, sc, sc-inc3, sc. FOLLT (F29). See graphic 8. Sew or glue these strips to the front of the dress (F30).

Big strip
Use a crochet hook 0.25mm smaller than the one you used for the doll (in my case, I used 1.5mm) and with white yarn, ch 188, then make: (3 sc, sc-inc4, 3 sc, sk 3)x18, 3 sc, sc-inc4, 3 sc. FOLLT (F31). See graphic 9. Sew or glue this strip all around the bottom of the dress (F32).

Collar
With white yarn, ch 23, start working in 3rd ch from hook: 3 hdc in the same ch, skip 1 ch, 1 slst in the
next ch, skip 1 ch, 3 hdc in the same ch, skip 1 ch, 1 slst in the next ch, skip 1 ch, 5 dc in the same ch,
skip 1 ch, 1 slst in the next ch, skip 1 ch, 5 dc in the same ch, skip 1 ch, 1 slst in the next ch, skip 1 ch,
3 hdc in the same ch, skip 1 ch, 1 slst in the next ch, skip 1 ch, 3 hdc in the same ch. FOLLT. See
graphic 10.
Sew the collar to the top of the dress with the long tail (F33).

Buttons
Make two buttons: one in red and the other in green. Make mr and 6 sc in the ring, join to the 1st
st with slst and close the ring very well, making this way a tiny circle (F34). FOLLT. Sew the buttons
to the front of the dress, between the white strips (F35).

Bows (make 2)
With red yarn and 1.5mm crochet hook, make mr, and inside the ring make: ch 3, 3 tr, ch 3, join to
the ring with slst, ch 3, 3 tr, ch 3, join to the ring with slst. Close the ring and FOLLT. (See graphic
above).
With the long tail, roll it around the center of the bow several times to make that part smaller.
(F36). Then sew the bows to each sleeve (F37).

Lollipops (make 2)
Make one lollipop in white with red and the other one in white with green. Use 1.5mm crochet hook
(or according to your hook). With white yarn make: ch 13 and 12sc, FOLLT. With red (or green)
make: ch 22 and 21sc, FOLLT.
Place the ends of both strips as shown in F38 and join them there, then pass the longer strip
over the white strip (F39) and roll up both strips, until you have the shape of the lollipop (F40),
then sew it with sewing thread to secure the fold (F41). Sew the lollipops to one side of the dress,
over the white zig-zag strip (F42).
Finally the dress is done!

Skirt
Work in joined rounds. The first 3 ch are not counted as a stitch.
Start with green
R 1 ch 32, join to the 1st ch with slst, making a circle (F43), ch 2 and then 32 hdc on ch. JCH3 [32]
R 2 32 dc. JCH3 [32]
R 3 (7dc, dc-inc)x4. JCH3 [36]
R 4 (8dc, dc-inc)x4. JCH3 [40]
R 5 40 dc-inc. JCH3 [80]
R 6 (dc, dc-inc)x40. JCH3 [120]
R 7 120 dc. JCH3 [120]
R 8 (11 dc, dc-inc)x10. JCH3 [130]
R 9 130 dc. JCH3 [130]
R 10 130 dc. JCH2 [130]
R 11 130 hdc. JCH1 [130]
R 12 TLO (sc, ch 2)x130. JSL and FO [390]

Shoes
Work all around the foundation chain.
Start with red
R 1 ch 6, sc-inc, 3 sc, sc-inc4, 3 sc, sc-inc [14]
R 2 2 sc-inc, 3sc, 4 sc-inc, 3 sc, 2 sc-inc [22]
R 3 sc, 2 sc-inc, 5 sc, (2 sc-inc, 2sc)x2, 3 sc, 2 sc-inc, sc [30]
R 4 BLO 29 sc, sc-inc [31]
R 5 31 sc [31]
R 6 10 sc, 6 sc2tog, 9 sc [25]
R 7 9 sc, 4 sc2tog, 8 sc. FO (F44) [21]
To make the sole, repeat rounds from 1 to 3 of the shoe and do not cut yarn. Then cut a piece of cardboard the size of the sole (F45). Join the sole to the bottom of the shoe by making a slst through all the front loops of R 3 of the shoe (F46) [30]. Before finishing joining the sole, insert the piece of cardboard (F47) and finish closing. At the end FO.
Attach yarn in stitch 9 or to the stitch that is right in the middle of the front of the shoe (F48) and ch 14, then 10 slst, ch 11, 10 slst, 3 slst in the remaining chains and join to the next st of the shoe with slst (F49). FO. Put the shoes on the doll and sew the two straps at the back (F50).

Hair
Base
Start with dark brown
R 1 mr, 8 sc [8]
R 2 FLO 8 sc-inc [16]
R 3 (sc, sc-inc)x8 [24]
R 4 FLO (2 sc, sc-inc)x8 [32]
R 5 FLO (3 sc, sc-inc)x8 [40]
Strands
Always start making the strands in the 3rd chain from hook.
First layer
Do not cut yarn, you will now make the first layer of strands, which will be joined to the last round of the base with slst. For every 2 stitches of that round, one strand will be made (20 strands in total).
Strands 1-20: ch 54, (hdc, hdc-inc)x8, 36hdc [60]. Skip the next st of the base and join to the next one with slst (F51).
Second layer
Turn your work, and with the wrong side facing you, make 2 slst to get to the back loops of round 4 of the base. In this layer, you will make 16 strands (1 for every 2 stitches of round 4). Repeat the same sts as before for the strands.
Third layer
Make 3 slst to get to the front loops of round 1 of the base. In this layer, you will make 4 strands (1
for every 2 stitches of round 1). Repeat the same sts as before for the strands (F52).
When you finish the last strand, FO.
In total you will make 40 strands of 60 sts each one.

Sew or glue the hair to the head, placing the 1st layer first (tie the top layers together while doing
this) (F53), distributing the strands well all over the head.
After the glue dries or you finish sewing, place the strands of the 2nd layer on top of the 1st one
but do not glue them. Finally, place the 3rd layer of strands without gluing it. Arrange the hair on
the doll as you like.

Hat
Work in joined rounds.
Start with light brown
R 1 mr, 7sc. JCH1 [7]
R 2 7sc-inc. JCH1 [14]
R 3 (sc, sc-inc)x7. JCH1 [21]
R 4 (2 sc, sc-inc)x7. JCH2 [28]
R 5 (3 hdc, hdc-inc)x7. JCH1 [35]
R 6 35 BPsc. JCH1 [35]
R 7-11 35 sc (5 rounds). JCH1 [35]
R 12 (5sc, sc2tog)x5. JCH1 [30]
R 13-14 30 sc (2 rounds). JCH1 [30]
R 15 30 sc. JCH2 [30]
R 16 FLO 30 hdc-inc. JCH1 [60]
R 17 60 sc. JSL [60]
Change to white
R 18 BLO (ch 4, sk 1, slst)x30 (F54) FO. [120]

Topping
Work in joined rounds.
Start with white
R 1 mr, 7 sc. JCH1 [7]
R 2 7 sc-inc. JCH1 [14]
R 3 (sc, sc-inc)x7. JCH1 [21]
R 4 (2 sc, sc-inc)x7. JCH2 [28]
R 5 (3 hdc, hdc-inc)x7. JSL [35]
Now you will make the tips of the topping. A total of 12 tips will be made. Start by making BLO 1 sc in
the next st, then for each tip, make:
1) ch 4, 1 sc, 2 hdc on chains [3]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
2) ch 5, 1 sc, 3 hdc on chains [4]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
3) ch 7, 1 sc, 5 hdc on chains [6]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
4) ch 4, 1 sc, 2 hdc on chains [3]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
5) ch 5, 1 sc, 3 hdc on chains [4]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
6) ch 7, 1 sc, 5 hdc on chains [6]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
7) ch 3, 1 sc, 1 hdc on chains [2]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
8) ch 5, 1 sc, 3 hdc on chains [4]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
9) ch 4, 1sc, 2 hdc on chains [3]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
10) ch 7, 1 sc, 5 hdc on chains [6]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
11) ch 5, 1 sc, 3 hdc on chains [4]. BLO 3 sc on the next sts.
12) ch 3, 1 sc, 1 hdc on chains [2]. BLO 1 sc on the next sts. Join to the 1st st with slst. FOLLT. (F55).
Embroider with red and green yarn, stripes all over the topping to make sprinkles (F56).
Sew the topping to the hat with the long tail (F57).

Strip
Make 2 strips, one in red and the other one in green. Ch 41, 40 slst and FO. Then join the two strips together at one end with thread (F58).
Once the end is joined, hold the other end with your hand and twist the two strips together until
they’re like in F59. Glue the strip to the hat and sew together at the back (F60).

Big lollipop
The lollipops are worked with the Jacquard technique, which means that in the same round you will change the colors. The color you will have to change to is defined by the color of the letters in the pattern:
sc = in white color
sc = in red color
Start with white
R 1 mr, 6 sc [6]
R 2 6 sc-inc: ({1 sc, 1 sc})x6. This means that you will make in the same stitch one sc in white and
one sc in red. [12]
R 3 (1sc, sc-inc)x6 [18]
R 4 (1sc, 2 sc)x6 [18]
R 5 (1sc, sc2tog)x6 [12]
R 6 6 sc2tog. (See graphic 11) [6]
Stuff just a little and FOLLT. Close the hole. (F61)

Small lollipop
This lollipop is worked the same way as the big one. Repeat rounds 1 and 2 of the big lollipop but with green instead of red. FOLLT. (F61).
Candy cane
Change the color in each round.
Start with white
R 1 mr, 6 sc [6]
Change to red
R 2 6 sc [6]
Change to white
R 3 6 sc [6]
R 4-14 Repeat rounds 2 and 3, intercalating them. [6]
Cut a piece of wire the size of the cane plus about 5 cm long and fold each end as shown in F62, cover it with tape and insert it inside the cane and close the hole. Fold the top to give it the shape of a cane (F63).

Candy
Use a 1.5mm hook (or a 0.25mm smaller hook).
Work in rows.
Start with green
Rw 1 ch 9, sc-inc, 5 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 [8]
Rw 2 BLO sc2tog, 5 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [8]
Change to white
Rw 3 BLO sc-inc, 5 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 [8]
Rw 4 BLO sc2tog, 5 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [8]
Change to green
Rw 5 BLO sc-inc, 5 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 [8]
Rw 6 BLO sc2tog, 5 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [8]
Change to white
Rw 7-12 Repeat rows 3, 4, 5 and 6, in the same order and with same colors until you have 12 rows (F64).
Place both ends of the rectangle together and join them with slst until you reach the end [8] (F65). FOLLT. Close one side of the candy with the yarn and a needle (F66). Before closing the other side, stuff with fiberfill. Then close the other side (F67).
To make the wrapping sides, take green yarn and make: mr and (sc, 3 dc)x3 inside the ring, JSL and FOLLT (F68). Make two of this and sew them to each side of the candy (F69).

Sphere
Start with red
R 1 mr, 5 sc [5]
R 2 5 sc-inc [10]
R 3-4 10 sc (2 rounds). Stuff a little. [10]
R 5 5 sc2tog [5] FOLLT (F70).
Assembly
Sew or glue the big lollipop to the top of the hat (F71).
Sew or glue the small lollipop to the top of the hat, in front of the big one (F72).
Sew or glue the candy cane to the hat, behind the lollipops (F73).
Sew or glue the candy to the hat, in front of the strip.
Sew or glue the sphere on top of the candy (F74).

Headband
Measure the top of the doll’s head, from one side to the other. Cut a piece of wire, the length of your previous measurement multiplied by two, and add about 2cm. Once the wire is cut, fold it as shown in F75, placing both ends of the wire in the center. Then twist the wire and cover most of it with tape, leaving the ends uncovered (F76-F77). Fold the wire as shown in F78, the folded wire has to match the shape of the doll’s head (F79).

Then with brown yarn, make a slipped ring and tie it to one end of the wire, (passing it through the
loop) (F80). Then make as many single crochet stitches as you require until you get to the other
end of the wire (passing the yarn under the two wires) (F81-F82). Once you get to the other end, cut a long strand. Using a needle to help you, roll the strand several times inside the loop at the end of the wire (F83) to secure it. Then cut the yarn and hide it. Finally, sew the headband to the hat with sewing thread (F84).

Finishing touches
Glue the false eyelashes on each eye (this is optional, you can also embroider them if you want so).
Add some blush or pastel chalk on each cheek and knees.

FINISH