Amigurumi, Amigurumi Christmas Deer, amigurumi free pattern, amigurumi toys, amigurumi toys animals

Amigurumi Cristmas Deer Free Crochet Pattern


-For the moose, I used “Bamboo grass” for the first time, “Ndesuk” the second time, my yarn consumption turned out to be small, about 1/4 of a hank of “grass bamboo” and it took a little.

– Horns and hooves are knitted of velor, you need very little of it, you can take yarn similar to the main one in terms of characteristics, just brown.

-For the sweater, I used the “Children’s novelty” yarn, I really liked the cherry color. But

you can use any yarn, sew clothes, or not wear it at all.

-Wire for horns, and wire for the frame (the arms and legs will be tied into the body, if you knit from yarn that holds its shape (the same bamboo grass) then the frame can not be used.

– Half a bead, a drop of white felt, and quite a bit of suede cord for the peephole, or

use ready-made plastic eyes of your choice.

-Pastel for tinting or shade or you can do without tinting at all.

-Decoration to your taste.


sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet

ınc = ıncavka (knit two from one loop)

dec = decavka (knit two loops together)

Use a marker to determine the beginning of the row, if the marker moves, then use a loop

offset, adjust its position by knitting or not knitting the required amount

single crochet stitches These stitches do not count for the next row.

Arms and legs


Brown yarn (I have velor) or extra yarn at you

1r. – 2 chvo the second 6 sc or 6 sc in the amigurumi ring

2p. – (2sc ınc). * 2 = 8 sc

3 – 4 rubles. = 8 sc we go to the main yarn, I have a beige ndeck

beige yarn

5 – 15 rub. = 8 sc, break the thread, we will knit the handles, if you don’t sew, we will not

will need.


Brown yarn (I have velor) or extra yarn at you

1r. – 2 chvo second 6 sc or 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2p. – (1sc 1 ınc.) * 3 = 9 sc

3r. – behind the back wall of the loop (the one that is farther from us) = 9 sc

4p. = 9 sc

5p.-1 dec, 7sc = 8sc we go to the main yarn, I have a beige ndesuk

beige yarn

6 – 15 rubles. = 8 sc, break the thread, we will knit the legs, if you don’t sew, we will not

will need.

We stuff as we knit, I stuffed only the hooves, then I inserted the wire of the frame and I didn’t need the stuffing. I put coins in the legs – 1 kopeck, just for the shape, but you can do without it.


The marker runs strictly in the middle of the backrest, follow the marker please, here we are very

it is important to knit arms and legs symmetrically. At this stage, we need a wire for

frame, since I knitted from ndeck, this yarn itself is thin and does not hold its shape very well

ok, such a chenille wire came in handy (see photo). You can use any

insulate the ends with adhesive tape, you can insulate the entire frame with it. I will write right away that I myself was not very willing to take on those products where wire was needed, I was afraid not to cope, but try it, only until you take it scary, your eyes are afraid, but your hands do!

1r. – 2 ch – in the second 6 sc (or 6 sc in the amigurumi ring)

2p. – 6 ınc. = 12 sc

3p. – (1sc, ınc) * 6 = 18 sc

4p. – (2 sc, ınc) * 6 = 24 sc

5r. – (3 sc, ınc) * 6 = 30 sc

6-7 R.-30sc

8 rub. – (4sc ınc) * 6 = 36 sc

9p.-in this row we will knit the legs, just attach the legs to the body and knit the indicated

the number of single crochet stitches, simultaneously capturing the loops of the body and legs

7sc sweat-4 sc body with leg – 14 sc over body – 4 sc then body with leg-7 sc over body = 36

10 rubles – we finish knitting the legs, we knit along the body and along the uncovered edge of the legs

– 7sc sweating-4 sc body with a leg – 14 sc over the body – 4 sc then body with a leg-7 sc over the body = 36

11r. – (5sc ınc.) * 6 = 42 sc

12p-13r. = 42 sc

14 – 16sc, 5 dec. , 16sc. = 37 sc

15 rub. -17 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc. = 36 sc

16 – 17 rubles. = 36 sc

18p- (4sc, dec) * 3 (dec, 4 sc) * 3 = 30 sc

19 rub. – (3sc, dec) * 6. = 24 sc

20p-24p = 24sc

25 rubles – we knit the handles, the principle is the same as for the legs 4sc on the body-4 sc. body with handle – 8 sc; body – 4 sc. body with handle – 4 body = 24

26 finish knitting handles

4sc on the body-4 sc. body with handle – 8 sc; body – 4 sc. body with handle – 4 body = 24

At this stage, I inserted the wireframe into the body. I measured the length of the handles + 5cm (for screwing to the body, I insulated the end, screwed it to the frame for the body. I made 2 blanks like this. Insert the frames into the body, FAST, fill it tightly, but not to a stone state, so that the filler does not shine through between the loops. After 29 row, I twisted the frames together, and brought the remaining wire into the neck and stuck it into the head so that it would hold.

27r – 29r. = 24 sc

30p- (2sc, dec) * 6 = 18sc

31p- (1sc, dec) * 6 = 12sc

32p- (2sc, dec) * 3 = 9sc

33p-36p = 9sc Horns and ears


First, we knit the main branch, and sew additional ones to it.

Main part:

1r. – 2 ch – in the second 4 sc (or 4 sc in the amigurumi ring)

2p-18p (or to desired length) = 4 sc, leave thread to be sewn to head.

Cut the wire, along the length of the horn + 2 cm (stick it in the head and sew it on during assembly), isolate the ends, put it inside the horn, I didn’t need stuffing, the insulated wire sat completely tight inside.

Additional twigs (I have 2 for each horn):

1r. – 2 ch – in the second 4 sc (or 4 sc in the amigurumi ring)

2p-5p (or to the desired length) = 4sc, leave the thread for sewing.

I did not stuff additional branches and did not insert wire into them, I have velor horns and it keeps its shape perfectly.


Give the desired shape to the main branch on the wire, sew additional branches to the main one.


1r. – 2 ch – in the second 6 sc (or 6 sc in the amigurumi ring)

2p. – (2sc, ınc.) * 2 = 8 sc

3.r. – (3sc, ınc.) * 2 = 10 sc

4p-6p. = 10 sc

7p. – (3sc, dec) * 2 = 8sc

8 rub. = 8 sc

9p. – (2sc, dec.) * 2 = 6 sc

8р .- (dec) * 3

9p. Knit all 3 loops together sc or pull off with a needle.

Slightly flatten the finished eyelet at the base and grab it with a needle and thread, for the beauty of the shape. (See the finished photo of the elk) slightly tint the inside with pastels, shadows or a marker.


the marker runs strictly along the bottom, along the back (not across the face), moving to the back of the head.

1r. – 2 ch – in the second 6 sc (or 6 sc in the amigurumi ring)

2p. – (ınc.) * 6 = 12 sc

3p. – (1sc, ınc) * 6 = 18 sc

4p. – (2 sc, ınc) * 6 = 24 sc

5r. – (3 sc, ınc) * 6 = 30 sc

6p. – (4 sc, ınc). * 6 = 36 sc

7p. – (5sc, ınc.) * 6 = 42 sc

8p – 11r. = 42 sc

12r. – (5sc, dec.) * 6 = 36 sc

13r. – (4 sc, dec.) * 6 = 30 sc


15 R.-11sc, (dec) * 4, 11sc = 26 sc

16 rubles – 9sc, (dec) * 4, 9sc = 22sc

17р.-9sc, (dec) * 2, 9sc = 20 sc

18 rub. – 8sc, (ınc) * 4, 8sc = 24 sc

19 rub. – 9sc, (ınc) * 6, 9sc = 30 sc

20 rub. = 30sc

21r. – (4 sc, ınc) * 6 = 36sc

22r. = 36 sc

23r. – (4sc, dec) * 6 = 30sc

24r. – (3sc, dec) * 6 = 24sc

25 rubles = 24 sc

26r. – (2sc, dec) * 6 = 18 sc

27r. – (1sc, dec) * 6 = 12 sc

28r. – (dec.) * 6 = 6 sc

29p pull off the hole.

Now we take the horns and with the help of the free end of the wire we place it in the head, we are looking for something

the position that we like, we follow the symmetry of the location of the horns, as soon as we found an advantageous position, we sew on the horns. Sew the ears under the horns, respectively, 1-2 rows lower, as you like.

Stick the wire from the neck into the head, sew.

I made an angle for the peephole, but you can do without it, it turns out no worse.

I inserted the needle into the junction of the neck with the head, chose a place for the eyes (here to my taste

be guided) and entered at point 1 – then at point 2 and again at the place where the neck is attached to the head, pull it slightly, helping with your finger, to fix it. The same is for the second eye on the other side – to the junction of the neck with the head – to point 1 – then to point 2 and again to the place where the neck is attached to the head, pull it slightly, helping with your finger, to fix it.

Cut out pieces of white felt for the whites of the eyes, glue to the head. (You can roll, make of plastic or embroider, no felt, use a piece of cotton pad.) Glue the black half-pieces or ready-made eyes on top. If desired, form the eyelids from a piece of suede cord or a chain of air loops on top.

Nostril shaping:

We outline the location of the nostrils, for this I simply flattened my muzzle with my fingers, looking for the position that I liked. Then I put 4 needles, the distance between the points is 3 rows. We introduce the thread (at point 1 – at point 2 – at point 3 – at point 4,) repeat again, pull off, fasten the thread, we will get a place for the nostrils. Fasten the thread on the bridge of the nose, insert the needle into point 1 and from above, insert it into point 4 (the border of the nostril), we get a stitch, we wrap it around with thread to make a flagellum, fasten it. We do the same with the second nostril.

It can be easier: knit 2 chains of 7 loops, knit 7 single crochet on them and sew over the nostrils. I tinted with dry pastel the area around the eyes, the inside of the ears and nostrils, painted the eyebrows and a smile, but you can also embroider. You can knit the sweater yourself, you can wear different clothes Clothes

Leg warmers (optional)

I made my elbows like this: a chain of 7-8 loops (I had velor, I was dialing to the desired length) and each row knitted 7 stbn ONLY FOR THE BACK wall of the loop, until I got the coverage of the leg.


The sweater suited my Timofey, I knitted it from a children’s novelty, but since everyone has different materials, the description will be approximate.

We knit on 2 needles, from top to bottom. sew on the back.

Cast on 24 stitches.

1-10 row knit with an elastic band 1×1 (1 front, 1 purl) (I just wanted to turn the neck,

I love the cuffs, if you don’t really like it, tie 5 rows of elastic).

go to a flat surface.

11 row- (1 ıncaw from persons.loops, 2 persons.) * 8 = 32

12 row = 32 out

13th row- (1 ıncaw from persons.loop, 3 persons.) * 8 = 40

14 row = 40 out

15th row = 40 persons

16 row = 40 out

17 row = 40 persons.

18 row = 40 out.

19 row = (1 ıncaw from persons.loops, 4 persons.) * 8 = 48

20 row = 8 life, 8 loop off on a pin (future sleeve), 16 out, 8 loop off on a pin (I have

thread) (future sleeve), 8 life. = 32 loops on the working needle and 8 loops on 2 pins.

21 row = (1 ıncaw from persons.loops, 3 persons.) * 4 (3 persons, 1ıncaw from persons.loops) * 4 = 40

= 40

22 row = 40 out

23rd row = 40 persons

24 row = 40 out

25 row = (4 persons, 1ıncav from persons.loops) * 4 (1 ıncav from persons.loops, 4 persons.) * = 48 Try on a sweater, if the belly fits freely, then we knit further to the desired length without ıncavs, then go to elastic band 1×1 (1 person. 1 out) we knit 5-6 rows, close knitting, leave the thread for sewing.


1 row-1ınc.pers., 2 persons, 2ınc.persons, 2 persons, 1ınc.persons = 12

We knit to the desired length, (for those who love cuffs, we knit 10-12 rows with 1×1 elastic at the end),

similarly tie the second sleeve, leave the thread for sewing.

Sew sleeves, make cuffs.

Decorate on your own, dress up Moosie.

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