Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers
Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Georgie, the Fairy Boy Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

materials and amounts

▪cotton yarn(105m/50g) and/or merino yarn (250m/50g) in five different colours
▪ skin tone / colour A (cotton yarn 36g)
▪ sweater and collar / colour B (merino yarn choice 13g or cotton yarn choice 20g)
▪ wig / colour C (cotton yarn 11g)
▪ locks / colour D (merino yarn choice 21g, cotton yarn choice for locks AND wig 56g)
▪ boarder of the collar / colour E (small amount)
▪ wings / colour F (cotton yarn 11g)
▪ dungarees / colour G (merino yarn choice 9g, cotton yarn choice 16g)
• crochet hooks in size 2,5 mm and 3 mm
• safety eyes in size 5 mm
• sharp sewing needle for sewing body parts
• small embroidery needle and yarn left overs for the embroidery on the pants
• polyfiber fill
• pins
• stitch marker
• scissors
• pink blush and a brush for the cheeks
• optional: a small button for the pants
• optional: textile glue for the flower

colour codes.

skin tone (colour A): Babytoly 434 Ecru
sweater and collar (colour B): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Dusty Honey
wig (colour C): Ecobebek 545 Marple (alternatively: Babytoly 535 Birch)
curls (colour D): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Nature
boarder of the collar (colour E): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Cream
wings (colour F): Babytoly 870 Sky
pants (colour G): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Ocher Brown

abbreviations (US terms)

MR: magic ring
sc: single crochet
ch: chain stitch
sl st: slip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
dtc: double treble crochet
rnd(s): round(s)
R(s): row(s)
inc: increase
dec: decrease
BLO: back loop only
FLO: front loop only
(…) x…: repeat the instructions in the brackets as indicated after the brackets
(…): total number of stitches in this round
st(s): stitch(es)
col: colour

tips before starting.

• When using similar or the same yarn with the same hook size, Georgie will be
approx. 26-27 cm tall.
• When you need to decrease, make Invisible Decrease crochet stitches to have a
neater result.
• Please be aware that when you use different yarns and hook sizes, the outcome may
vary and you may have to adjust the size of eyes.
• Colour change is worked at the end of the previous stitch. Work the last stitch
before the colour change as usual but don´t complete the last stitch. When you have
two loops on your hook, yarn over in the new yarn colour and finish the stitch.
Continue working with the new colour.
• In this pattern you will find two versions how to crochet the doll (Georgie made
with cotton yarn and hair and clothes made with merino yarn starting at page 6
OR Georgie completely crocheted with cotton yarn, starting at page 28). Because
certain parts of the body and clothes turn out differently depending on which yarn
you use, the pattern has been adapted accordingly and is divided into two versions.
• Please note the proportions of the doll and his clothes will only be correct if you use
yarn of a similar (or the same) thickness as indicated.
• As an add-on you can find 2 short patterns for flowers on the last pages. There are
no step-by-step pictures included. Instead, there will be video tutorials coming soon
on my Instagram channel @lululovesthemoon

Georgie, crocheted with cotton yarn and merino yarn. Doll 1

head

Crochet in spiral rounds. Hook size 2,5 mm. Colour A.
rnd 1: 6 sc into a MR (6)
rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc (24)
rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
rnd 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)
rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
rnd 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)
rnds 9-18: 48 sc (48) (10 rounds)
Attach the eyes between rnd 15 & 16, with a distance of 11-12 visible stitches.
rnd 19: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (42)
rnd 20: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
rnd 21: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)
rnd 22: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
rnd 23: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, 1 sc (18)

Finish with 1 sl st, cut the yarn leaving a long thread for sewing onto the body later. Stuff the
head with much polyfiber fill until it has a pretty and round form with having bumps. When
you recognize that the stitches expand and the holes between get bigger and the stuffing
gets visible, then remove a little bit of the stuffing material

body.

Crochet in spiral rounds. Hook size 2,5 mm. Start with colour A. Colour B further on.
rnd 1: 6 sc into a MR (6)
rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc (24)
rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
rnd 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)
rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
rnd 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)
rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
rnds 10&11: 54 sc (54) (2 rounds)
Change to colour B. Crochet colour B with double thread. Hook size 2,5 mm.
rnds 12-15: 54 sc (54) (4 rounds)
rnd 16: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)
rnd 17: 48 sc (48)
rnd 18: 3 sc, dec,(6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (42)
rnd 19: 42 sc (42)
rnd 20: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
rnd 21: 36 sc (36)
rnd 22: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)
rnd 23: 30 sc (30)
rnd 24: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
rnd 25: 24 sc (24)
rnd 26: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, 1 sc (18)
rnd 27: 18 sc (18)
Finish the work with 1 sl st, cut the yarn and fasten off. Sew the threads carefully. Stuff the
body (but not too tight, the body should still be soft).

collar.

Crochet in rows. Hook size 2,5 mm. Start with colour B. From R5 colour E. Turn the body
upside down.

R1: Start with a standing hdc into the front loops at the top of the body, crochet a 2nd hdc
into this st. Continue crocheting 2 hdc in every front loop until you reach the penultimate st.
Skip the last st to create a collar which is open in the front). Crochet 2 ch (doesn’t count as
hdc), turn the work.
R2: Crochet again 2 hdc into every hdc of the previous rnd. Crochet 2 ch, turn the work.
Rs3-4: Crochet 1 hdc into every hdc of the previous rnd. Cut the yarn and pull it through the
loop. Sew the threads carefully on the underside of the collar
R5: To create a nice boarder of the collar you crochet with “reverse single crochet stitch /
crab stitch”. This stitch is made like a normal sc but crocheted in the opposite direction.
Take colour E and pull the thread through the 1st st of R4, crochet 1 ch. Continue working
clockwise. Go to the next st, pull up a loop onto the hook, pull it through the st, pill up a
loop again onto the hook an dpull the thread through both loops on the hook. Crochet
until you reach the end of the r, cut the yarn and pull it through the loop. Sew both thread
ends on the underside of the reverse single crochet sts

hair

The hair will be crocheted in two steps: first we crochet the hair cap. Onto this cap we will
crochet the curls later (see the next page).

hair cap

Crochet in spiral rounds. Hook size 2,5 mm. Make sure that the yarn of the hair cap and the
curls should be of a similar shade. The complete hair cap is crocheted in BLO! Colour C.
rnd 1: 6 sc into a MR (6)
rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc (24)
rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
rnd 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)
rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
rnd 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)
rnds 9-15: 48 sc (48) (7 rounds)
rnd 16: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (42)
Finish the work with 1 sl st, cut the yarn and sew the thread. (If the doll is for a small child,
don’t sew the thread. Leave it long and sew the complete hair onto the head later on.

curls

Hook size 3 mm. Colour D. Take the hair cap and start with the 1st st of the remaining front
loops (at the top of the piece, where you started with the MR). From this point you crochet
counterclockwise curl for curl.
Push the hook into the 1st front loop, pull up a loop and pull it through the loop. Crochet 6
sc. Now crochet along the chain: start into the 2nd ch of hook and make 3 sc into this ch.
Repeat this with the next 4 ch (into every ch -> 3 sc). Crochet 1 sl st into the next 3 loops of
the hair cap. Now make the next curl by crocheting again 6 ch, and 3 sc into each 5 ch
along. Crochet another 3 sl st into the loops of the hair piece.
Repeat this scheme until you reach the last loop of the hair cap. In this last loop make 1 sl st,
cut the yarn and sew all remaining threads carefully

Now you can put the hair on the head. The hair should be quite difficult to put on the head,
so you prevent the hair from falling off easily.
If you notice that the hair is too loose, I recommend to sew them on the head with some
stitches

arm (make 2)

Crochet in spiral rounds. Start with colour A. Colour B further on.
rnd 1: 4 sc into a MR (4)
rnd 2: (inc) x 4 (8)
rnds 3-9: 8 sc (8) (7 rounds)
Don’t stuff the arm. Finish with 1 sl st and sew the thread

Put the arm to the side. Start with colour B for the second piece of the arm (the sleeve, see
the following pictures). Crocheted with double thread. Hook size 2,5mm.
Crochet 11 ch.
rnd 1: Close the chains with 1 sc into the first ch.
Crochet 10 sc each in every ch. (11)
rnds 2-4: 11 sc (11) (3 rounds)
rnd 5: Now take the arm and put it through the sleeve hole, so that the last rounds are even.
The stitches from both last rounds – arm and sleeve – are now joined together by
crocheting sc through the stitches of the sleeve and through the front loops of the stitches
of the arm. Since the arm consists of only 8 stitches, you can crochet the last 3 stitches only
through the sleeve. It’s important that you have 11 sc at the end of the round.
rnds 6-11: 11 sc (11) (6 rounds)
Crochet another 6 sc, flatten the arm and crochet both sides together with 4-5 sc to close
the arm.

leg (make 2)

Crochet in spiral rounds. Hook size 2,5 mm. Colour A.
Stuff the leg continuously from beginning, so that the leg doesn’t get bumpy.
rnd 1: 6 sc into a MR (6)
rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10)
rnd 4: (4 sc, inc) x 2 (12)
rnds 5&6: 12 sc (12) (2 rounds)
rnd 7: inc, 11 sc (13)
rnds 8-28: 13 sc (13) (21 rounds)
Flatten the leg and crochet both sides together with 5-6 sc. Cut the yarn and pull it through
the loop.

wing. (make 4)

version 1 (big wings).

big wing (make 2).

Crochet in spiral rounds. Hook size 2,5 mm. Colour F.
rnd 1: 5 sc into a MR (5)
rnd 2: 5 sc (5)
rnd 3: (inc) x 5 (10)
rnd 4: (1 sc, inc) x 5 (15)
rnds 5-14: 15 sc (15) (10 rounds)
rnd 15: dec x 7, 1 sc (8)
End with 1 sl st. Close the hole with a tapestry needle. With one wing, sew the thread. With
the other wing leave a long thread for sewing both wings later (as seen in pictures on page
19).

small wing (make 2)

Crochet in spiral rounds. Hook size 2,5 mm. Colour F.
rnd 1: 4 sc into a MR (4)
rnd 2: 4 sc (4)
rnd 3: (inc) x 4 (8)
rnd 4: (1 sc, inc) x 4 (12)
rnds 5-10: 15 sc (12) (6 rounds)
rnd 11: dec x 6 (6)

End with 1 sl st. Close the hole with a tapestry needle. With one wing, sew the thread. With
the other wing leave a long thread for sewing both wings later (as seen in pictures on page
19).
After you now have 2 pairs of wings, you also sew these two together in the middle. Later
you can sew it onto the doll’s back.

First finishings and sewing on the body parts

Now sew the head onto the body. It is easier if you take the hair off the head again for this.
After that you can put the hair back on the head. With pink or red blush and a brush you
can paint cheeks under the eyes.
Sew the arms directly under the collar on the left and right of the body.
The legs are sewn onto the body between rnd 9 and 10 with a distance of 15 stitches.
At the end you can sew the wings exactly in the middle of the back.

dungarees

Crochet in spiral rounds. Hook size 2,5 mm. Colour G.
The main part of the dungarees is crocheted from the top down. Later the bib will be
added.
Crochet 46 ch, close them to a ring with 1 sc into the first ch.
rnds 1-15: 46 sc (46) (15 rounds)
From here now crochet the two legs of the dungarees by splitting the 46 stitches into two
parts and forming two new rings

1.pant leg

rnd 1: Count backwards from the hook 23 stitches. Mark this 23rd stitch with a stitch marker
and crochet 1 sc into this marked stitch (this is your first circle).
Crochet another 22 sc. (23)
rnd 2: 23 sc (23)
Finish the pant leg with 1 sl st and sew the thread carefully.

2.pant leg:

rnd 1: Start next to the first pant leg with a standing sc and
crochet clockwise another 22 sc. (23)
rnd: 23 sc (23)
Finish the pant leg with 1 sl st and sew both threads

Between the two pant legs is now a small hole. With thread and needle and a few stitches
you can close this hole.
The threads are sewn as well on the inside of the pants.

bib:

Now lay the pants smoothly in front of you and count the stitches from right to left. Count 9
stitches exactly in the middle of the pant and mark the first and the last st with 2 stitch
markers. Crochet in rows.
R1: Start with a standing sc into the marked stitch on the right and crochet another 8 sc. 1
ch, turn. (9)
Rs2-4: 9 sc, 1 ch, turn. (9) (3 rows)
Don’t cut the yarn

suspenders.

Put on your dolls pants and crochet approximately 20 ch (you may need more or less ch for
your suspenders). The suspenders should fit not too loose but also not too tight so that it’s
still possible to take off the dungarees easily over one arm.
Guide the suspenders backwards over the right shoulder, diagonally across the back to the
upper right edge of the pants.
There you can join the suspenders to the pants with 1 sl st. Cut the yarn and pull it through
the loop. Sew all remaining threads on the inside of the dungarees