Amigurumi Spiderman Free Crochet Pattern

Amigurumi Spiderman toys have become quite popular lately. These toys are handmade and made using knitting techniques. These cute and adorable versions of Spiderman, a character loved by both kids and adults, win everyone’s appreciation.

Amigurumi Spiderman toys can also be made with many different materials. Great results can be achieved by using knitting threads, fiberfill material and various accessories.

These toys can be used not only for entertainment but also for decorative purposes. Spiderman fans can display these cute toys in their home or office. In addition, Amigurumi Spiderman toys can help children develop their imagination and encourage them to explore their creativity.

Amigurumi Spiderman toys feel unique and special because they are handmade. Also, these toys can be a special gift idea. You can gift an Amigurumi Spiderman to your loved ones or friends on their special day or just as a thoughtful gesture.

As a result, Amigurumi Spiderman toys can be cute, cuddly and special toys. Because they are handmade, they feel unique and special and can be used for many different purposes. Recommend to Spiderman fans or just anyone interested in cute toys!

Amigurumi Spiderman Free Crochet Pattern

Materials used:
3.00 mm crochet
Yarn needle
Sewing marks
Polyester fiber fill or other filling material
Blue thread (Style craft Special DK – 1831)
Red thread (Style craft Special DK – 1246.)
Black thread (Style craft Special DK – 1002)
White yarn (Style craft Special DK – 1001)
The exact yarn I used in this project has affiliate links in parentheses next to the colors, but any DK weight yarn will do!

If you get stuck with any of the stitches or techniques, check out some of the tutorials below.
mr-magic ring
sc-single crochet
ınc-To increase
how to change colors
hdc-half double crochet
loopback only
popcorn stitch


1. (in Red) MR 6 (6)

 2.[ inc ] x 6 (12)

 3.[ inc, sc ]x 6 (18), [ inc, sc 2 ]x 5, inc, sc (24)

 5.[inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30) 2, [inc, sc 4 ]x 5, inc, sc 2 (36) 36 (36) 2, [ dec, sc 4 ]x 5, dec, sc 2 (30)

 15.[ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24), [ dec, sc 2 ]x 5, dec, sc (18)

Finish off by doing a slip stitch in the next stitch.

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail about 20cm or 7 inches long which we’ll use to attach to the body later.

 At this point, make sure that you have the correct side on the“outside” of the doll.

Arms (make 2):

1. (in Red) mr 6 (6)

2. [inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8) 8 (8) 3, 4 sc popcorn, sc 4 (8) 8 (8)

9-14.(continue in red) sc 4 (change to blue) sc 4 (8)**

15. (change to red) sc 8 (8)

** This is for the first arm. For the second arm it should be

9-14. (change to blue) sc 4 (change to red) sc 4 (8)

This is so that when you’re finished the thumb is in the correct spot for each arm.

TIP : The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb, if you prefer straight arms, simply replace the popcorn stitch with a sc.

The arms are so small there’s no need for stuffing. Finish off by doing a slip stitch in the next stitch.

Cut the yarn, leaving enough of a tail to attach to the body later – approximately 10cm or 4 inches.

Legs (make 2):

1 (in red) MR 6 (6)

2.[inc ]x 6 (12)

3.[inc, sc ]x 6 (18)

4.BLO sc 18 (18) 18 (18) 3, dec 6, sc 3 (12) 12 (12)

12-19.change to blue) sc 12 (12)

Finish off the first leg. Leave the second leg on your crochet hook. This will make it easier to join.

Joining the legs:

Take the two legs and position them so that both feet are pointing correctly. I like to place two bobby pins across the stitches where the legs will join to make it a little easier to keep track of. I’ve demonstrated below in a light, visible colour.

Position both legs. Make sure the feet are pointing forwards, and the start of the round is at the back to avoid visible colour changes.

Insert a bobby pin or your stitch markers to mark the crossover stitches from one leg to the other
sc as normal until you reach the first marked stitch. The next stitch will be on the same leg you are currently working on (the marked stitch on your current leg), the next stitch will be the marked stitch on the opposite leg.
sc as normal around. Do the same thing we just did when you reach the second bobby pin. Your work should look like this after the first row of the body!


1-3.(in blue) sc 24 (24)

4-5.(in red) sc 24 (24)(at this point stuff the legs)


See the note below before continuing.

6-7.(in Blue) sc 24 (24) *(check note below) 3, dec, [ sc 6, dec ]x 2, sc 3 (21) *

9.[dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18) *

10. sc 2, dec [ sc 4, dec ]x 2, sc 2 (15) **(check note below)

11.(in red) [ dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12) 12 (12)

13.[sc, inc ]x 6 (18)

* For the rows marked with a star (rows 6-11) we’re going to add 5 stitches in red. Before starting the row take two bobby pins or stitch markers of some kind, and find the stitch the runs up the middle of the body. This will be the middle red stitch. Count two to either side and mark both of these stitches. This will be where the red stitches begin and end.

Mark the stitches that we’ll keep in red.

In the first picture, you can see there are three stitches between the marked stitches. In the second picture you can see the end result of 5 stitches in each row.

If a decrease is supposed to go where the colour change happens, just move it a stitch earlier or later and replace it with a single crochet to make it easier to change colours. Unfortunately the placement changes depending on where you joined the legs, so it makes it difficult to make an exact stitch count!

** For the row marked with a double star (row 10) add an additional red stitch either side of your existing stitches. This makes it usually 5 or 6 stitches depending on where your decreases fell in the previous rows.

Finish off and stuff the rest of the body.


 Stuff the legs before beginning the decreases. Make sure it’s not stuffed too much. You should be able to press the bottom of the feet in and have the doll stand.

Putting it all together!

Attach the arms next. I like to pin them in place first so that I can get an idea of positioning, and then attach them as a flattened piece.

Next we’re going to create the black spider spider emblem on his chest and the red one on his back. Cut two shapes out of felt: a red circle and a black shape resembling a figure 8.

These shapes will be the bodies of the spider emblems, and we’ll use yarn or thread to embroider the legs on. I like to use a black that’s slightly thinner than regular yarn, since the area we’re working on is so small. I also like to bring up a reference Spiderman picture to get an accurate logo.

Attach the head. There should have been 18 stitches in the last round of the head and the body, so they match up evenly. Simple align the head properly, and whipstitch closed!

For the eyes you have two options. I used to cut them out of white felt, so if you prefer this method follow these instructions:

Cut two eyes out of white felt. To make it easier to match the black felt outline to it, I will usually glue the white eyes onto a black square when I’m happy with the shape, then trim the outline when the white is already firmly attached.

Then, to attach it to the head it’s nice and easy – simply glue them in place!

Otherwise, if you prefer a crocheted look, you can make the eyes as below:

Eyes (make 2):

1.(in White) ch 5 (5)

2.(starting in second chain from hook) sc, dc, dc, hdc (4)

Grab the tail with your crochet hook and pull it through the loop on your hook to finish off the eye. Leave a long tail which we’ll use to sew the eyes onto the head.

Eye Outline (make 2):

1.(in Black) ch 12 (12)

Pin the eyes onto the head to help centre them and use the tails to sew them into place. This can be a bit tricky, but patience and a good sturdy needle are key. You don’t need to go overboard sewing on every corner, just enough to hold it in place.

Be careful not to pull too tightly as well, or you’ll accidentally warp the shape of the eye. Just pull it tight enough so that it’s hidden and holds in place.

After the whites of the eyes are attached, take the black chains we made. I like to pin it in place in the inner corner of the eye, pull it across the eye and then place a second pin at the outer corner before bring it down to meet the start and close the circle.

Then use the tail again to sew it in place.

And that’s it, you’re done!

amigurumi free crochet

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