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Amigurumi Wombat Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Wombat Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

Square heads, square rumps and square paws; these fluffy
marsupials may look built for cuddles, but don’t get too close
– they are armed with sharp claws and can run quickly at any
intruder when defending their territory! Wombats are grassmunching digging machines, building elaborate underground
burrows to hide from the heat of the sun. Unlike other
marsupials, their pouches are backwards facing; I bet that
comes in handy for keeping dirt away from the little joeys. But
weirdest of all – and most delightful for any toddler – even
their poop is square-shaped!

Dimensions
23cm (9in) tall
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns 100% Wool Worsted Superwash (100% wool) 200m
(219yds) per 100g (3½oz) ball:
Grey: 1 x 100g (3½oz) ball in Stormy Grey (shade 1204)
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton) 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Dark Grey: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Slate Grey (shade 406)
Pink: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Peach Orange (shade 455) (optional)
Hooks
3.5mm (US E/4) hook
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 10.5mm black safety eyes
Wire brush
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle

Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown here, make a small circular swatch using the chosen
yarn and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the
swatch pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across. When made in
worsted weight wool with 3.5mm (US E/4) hook the swatch should
measure 4cm (1⅝in) across.

Head and body
Make 1 in Grey yarn with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 4 times. [20]
Round 4: (2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) 4 times. [28]
Round 5: (3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) 4 times. [36]
Round 6: (4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc) 4 times. [44]
Round 7: (5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc) 4 times. [52]
Round 8: (6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc) 4 times. [60]
Round 9: (7sc, inc in next st, 7sc) 4 times. [64] (photo 1

Rounds 10–23: Sc in all 64 sts. [14 rounds] (photo 2

The next rounds shape the muzzle.
Round 24: Inc 4 times, 60sc. [68] (photo 3)

Round 25: 1sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc, 3sc in next st, 61sc. [72]
Rounds 26–28: Sc in all 72 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 29: 1sc, inv sc3tog, 4sc, inv sc3tog, 61sc. [68]
Round 30: Inv dec, 4sc, inv dec, 60sc. [66]
Add the safety eyes on either side of the muzzle between Rounds 23
and 24, about eight stitches apart. (photo 4)

Round 31: (9sc, inv dec) 2 times, 22sc, (9sc, inv dec) 2 times. [62]
Round 32: (8sc, inv dec) 2 times, 22sc, (8sc, inv dec) 2 times. [58]
Round 33: (7sc, inv dec) 2 times, 22sc, (7sc, inv dec) 2 times. [54]
Round 34: (6sc, inv dec) 2 times, 22sc, (6sc, inv dec) 2 times. [50]
Round 35: (5sc, inv dec) 2 times, 22sc, (5sc, inv dec) 2 times. [46]
Round 36: 14slst, 28sc, 4slst. [46] (photos 5 and 6)

Now let’s make the body.
Round 37: 10sc, (inc in next st, 1sc) 6 times, 12sc, (1sc, inc in next
st) 6 times. [58]
Round 38: 10sc, (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times, 12sc, (inc in next st,
2sc) 6 times. [70]
Round 39: 10sc, (inc in next st, 5sc) 4 times, 12sc, (5sc, inc in next
st) 4 times. [78]
Rounds 40–43: Sc in all 78 sts. [4 rounds]
Next, it’s time to skip some stitches to make gaps for the arms.
Round 44: 10sc, ch6, skip 9sts, 50sc, ch6, skip 9sts. [72] (photo 7)

Round 45: 10sc, 6sc along the chain (working into the back hump of
the chain), 50sc, 6sc along the chain. [72] (photo 8)

Rounds 46–54: Sc in all 72 sts. [9 rounds]
Next, it’s time to skip some stitches to make gaps for the legs.
Round 55: 12sc, ch9, skip 6sts, 48sc, ch9, skip 6sts. [78] (photo 9)

Round 56: 12sc, 9sc along the chain, 48sc, 9sc along the chain. [78]
Rounds 57–58: Sc in all 78 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 59: (11sc, inv dec) 6 times. [72]
Round 60: (10sc, inv dec) 6 times. [66]
Round 61: (9sc, inv dec) 6 times. [60]
Round 62: (8sc, inv dec) 6 times. [54]
Round 63: (7sc, inv dec) 6 times. [48]
Round 64: (4sc, inv dec) 8 times. [40]
Round 65: (3sc, inv dec) 8 times. [32]
Round 66: (2sc, inv dec) 8 times. [24]
Add plenty of toy stuffing to the head, taking care to fill out the nose.
Then stuff the body. (photo 10)

Round 67: (2sc, inv dec) 6 times. [18]
Round 68: (1sc, inv dec) 6 times. [12]
Round 69: Inv dec 6 times. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close.
Paws
Make 4 in Grey yarn with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook and work around
the gaps created in Rounds 44 and 55.
Round 1: Join in yarn to any stitch, work 15sc around the gap. [15]
Rounds 2–6: Sc in all 15 sts. [5 rounds]
Round 7: (1sc, inv dec) 5 times. [10]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the claws in. Add some stuffing to
the paws through the gaps. (photo 11)

Claws
Make 4 in Dark Grey yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook. Work in
rows.
Ch6, start 2nd ch from hook.
Row 1: 1sc in each ch, turn. [5]
Row 2: (ch4, work into the back humps of the chain, 2slst, 2sc, slst in
next st from Row 1) 4 times. [4 claws]
Fasten off. (photos 12 and 13)

Ears
Make 2 in Grey yarn with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: Inc in all 5 sts. [10]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [15]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [20]
Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [25]
Round 6: (4sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [30]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (photo 14)

Nose
Make 1 in Dark Grey yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 4 times. [20]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Final details
Place the claws into the paw openings and sew them shut with the
Grey yarn tail. (photo 15

Sew the nose to the muzzle, angling it like a diamond shape. (photo
16)

Fold the ear pieces flat and sew them to the top of the head between
Rounds 6 and 10. (photos 17 and 18)

Except for the area around the nose, brush out all of the Grey yarn
with a wire brush. (photo 19)

Embroider the mouth underneath the nose using the Dark Grey yarn.
(photo 20)

Optional details
I love adding extra details to the toys; however, if you prefer a
simpler project, you could stop now as the next few pieces are
optional.
PALMS (OPTIONAL)
Make 4 in Pink yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: (1sc, 3sc in next st) 3 times. [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing and embroidery.
Sew the Pink palms to each paw. (photo 21)

TINY TAIL (OPTIONAL)
If you want to add a tail, make 1 in Grey yarn with a 3.5mm (US E/4)
hook.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: Inc in all 5 sts. [10]
Round 3: Sc in all 10 sts. [10]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew the tiny tail to the back of the wombat. (photo 22)

POUCH (OPTIONAL)
If you want to add a pouch, make 1 in Grey yarn with a 3.5mm (US
E/4) hook.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 4 times. [20]
Round 4: (2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) 4 times. [28]
Round 5: (3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) 4 times. [36]
Round 6: Sc in all 36 sts. [36]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Brush out the pouch with the wire brush and sew it onto the lower half
of the tummy, leaving an opening along the lower edge. (photo 23)

YOUR WOMBAT IS READY!

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